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Troubling year for suppliers

By Don Hogsett -- Home Textiles Today, 7/19/2004

NEW YORK — In a perplexing, punishing, watershed year for the American textiles industry, two of the largest, oldest and best-known companies in the business literally disappeared from view. Pillowtex, the heir to Fieldcrest and Cannon Mills, succumbed to a crushing debt load and a series of management missteps and shut its doors forever; and historically reticent Springs Industries, now a private company, no longer opened its books to public inspection.

For the companies left standing, or left in sight, it was a vexing, problematic year as retailers increasingly turned their backs on American suppliers, going directly to offshore producers; and U.S. suppliers themselves increasingly shopped abroad in search of lower-cost product and mothballed some of their now-redundant plants.

Given the tumultuous state of the business and the crushing debt loads crippling some players, it comes as something of a surprise that the eight public companies included in this year's Home Textiles Today Vendor Report Card actually made money last year — at least on paper. The eight remaining players — down from 10 last year and 15 just four years ago in 2000 — recorded a profit of $434.8 million, recovering from a prior-year loss of $366.3 million.

But the earnings number for the entire industry is substantially skewed by just one company, specialty textiles producer Polymer Group, which came out of bankruptcy with a one-time gain of $541 million, generating a paper profit of $499.4 million. Pull Polymer's one-time gain out of the equation, and the industry still lost money during 2003, a $101.7 million deficit. Still, that's a big improvement on the $366.3 million that the industry lost the previous year.

As for the top line, the picture is also problematic given the absence of Pillowtex and Springs. The eight companies still in the sample reported sales of $9.7 billion, a 2.4 percent rise over the $9.5 billion the same eight companies reported the year before.

Reflecting the continuing contraction of the American textiles industry, last year's sales total of $9.7 billion was smaller by 10.6 percent than the $10.9 billion the industry reported in 2002. And the total was down 16.8 percent from the $11.7 billion that 12 public companies reported in 2001.

Given the consolidation that has swept the industry, this year's eight companies in the Report Card is down almost half from the 15 companies included in 1995. Then, the industry had composite sales of $12.6 billion — greater by almost a third, 29.2 percent — than the $9.7 billion that eight public companies had last year.

Among the companies that have fallen off the Vendor Report Card since 1995, in addition to Pillowtex and Springs, are such once-familiar names as Burlington Industries, Collins & Aikman, Cone Mills, Guilford Mills, Dixie Yarns, Thomaston Mills, DHA, Conso Products, and Dakotah.

Back then, the industry may have been bigger, in terms of sales and the number of public companies, but it wasn't much more profitable. In fact, the 15 companies in the 1995 Report Card earned just $199 million, compared with this composite profit of $434.8 million for seven fewer companies last year.

Remarkably, some key performance metrics, like average gross margin, look considerably better now than they did back in '95. Last year, the industry recorded a composite average gross margin of 26.8 percent, down from 29 percent in 2002. That's still a lot better than the composite margin of 18.1 percent rung up in 1995.

Margins may be stronger now, but costs have also climbed, acting as an offset and putting pressure on the bottom line. During 2003, operating costs, as a percentage of sales, totaled 14.2 percent, sharply higher than the 10.6 percent in 1995. Measured on a year-over-year basis, 2003 costs edged modestly higher from the 13.9 percent of 2002.

Composite results of 8 textiles companies
Figures, excluding percentages, in $000s
20032002% chg
Sales$9,746,196$9,516,1272.4%
Net income434,806(366,314)
Operating income676,535813,299-16.8
Average gross margin26.8%29.0%
SG&A as % of sales14.213.9
Net debt coverage39.840.4
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Profitability Measures Sales
Company*net income x$000s% change '02-'03% change '99-'03return on salesreturn on equitynet sales x$000s% change '02-'03% change '99-'03op. income x$000s% change '02-'03operating margingross marginSG&A as % of salesinventory turnsnet debt coveragefiscal year end
Mohawk Inds.$310,1499.0%97.2%6.2%13.5%$5,005,05310.7%55.8%$542,0293.8%10.8%27.2%16.3%4.8x10.3%12/31/2003
WestPoint Stevens(133,284)11-8.114.01,646,202-9.1-12.652,341-59.43.217.214.13.7194.812/31/2003
Wellman(106,697)234-9.6-22.91,109,2759.430.614,004-72.31.37.36.08.772.312/31/2003
Polymer Group5499,379671393.4864.1843.5778,5383.0-12.540,651118.85.217.512.36.1146.91/3/2004
Dan River(153,028)910-32.1-192.5477,448-22.1-24.1(12,028)-2.510.813.32.8-238.81/3/2004
Quaker Fabric7,93911-31.3283.02.44.7325,337-11.029.414,801-35.84.521.617.05.426.31/3/2004
Culp127,22013-129.0142.37.0318,116-6.317,303-1.35.418.312.95.329.85/2/2004
Crown Crafts3,1281527.616173.617.086,227-9.0-73.07,434-14.98.622.714.14.554.53/28/2004
*Companies are ranked by dollar volume of sales.( ): Denotes loss Source: Home Textiles Today market research
1. Includes pretax restructuring and impairment charges of $49.6 million in 2003 and $6.6 million in 2002 and income tax benefits of $61.3 million in 2003 and $7.1 million in 2002. 2003 also includes a $31.5 million pretax charge for Chapter 11 expense.
2. After preferred dividends and accretion of $10.1 million; includes a $135.3 million pretax impairment charge, a $10.2 million pretax restructuring charge, a $54.4 million income tax benefit and $112,000 in net earnings from discontinued operations.
3. Includes a $23.7 million net loss from discontinued operations and a $197.1 extraordinary charge, the cumulative effect of an accounting change.
4. Includes $946,000 in earnings from discontinued operations. a $17.4 million pretax restructuring charge, a $5.7 million income tax benefit and a $1.8 million extraordinary charge, the cumulative effect of an accounting change.
5. 2003 figures represent the combined results for the 10 months ended Jan. 3, 2004 and the two months ended Mar. 1, 2003.
6. Includes a $6.8 million pretax plant realignment charge and a $540.5 million pretax reorganization gain.
7. Includes a $317.9 million pretax asset impairment charge, a $1.1 million pretax charge for plant realignment costs, a $3.6 million pretax special charge, a $15.4 million pretax foreign currency loss, $14.9 million in pretax Chapter 11 reorganization expense, a $3.3 million income tax benefit and a $12.8 million extraordinary charge, the cumulative effect of an accounting change.
8. Includes a $2.9 million pretax investment gain and a $739,000 pretax foreign currency gain.
9. Includes a $5.8 million income tax benefit.
10. Includes a $20.7 million extraordinary charge, the cumulative effect of an accounting change.
11. Includes a $1.4 million pretax non-recurring gain.
12. As of press time, Culp had not yet filed its annual SEC report. Figures are from unaudited company reports. Comparative information for 1999 is not available.
13. Includes a $1 million pretax restructuring credit and a $1.7 million pretax charge for the early extinguishment of debt.
14. Includes a $13 million pretax charge for restructuring and asset impairments, a $1.6 million income tax benefit and a $24.2 million extraordinary charge, the cumulative effect of an accounting change. 2002 net loss was $24.9 million.
15. Includes a $2,000 pretax gain on the disposition of assets and a $25,000 foreign currency translation gain.
16. Includes an $11,000 pretax loss on the disposition of assets, a $1.8 million pretax restructuring charge and a $35,000 foreign currency translation loss.
17. 1999 net loss was $29.1 million.

 

Sales Up

Carpets & Fibers gain ... : In a brutally challenging year for the eight remaining players in the Home Textiles Today Vendor Report Card, down from 10 just a year ago, only three managed to increase their sales during 2003. Worth noting, not one of those recording a sales gain is a pure-play home fashions supplier. The closest to home is Mohawk, but even then most of the gains come out of its core floor coverings business, notably its new Dal-Tile hard floor coverings business. Springs Industries, now a private company, no longer reports it sales; but, if it did, it would easily top the ranking with what insiders report was a sales gain well into double digits.

1. Mohawk Industries$5,005,05310.7%
2. Wellman1,109,2759.4
3. Polymer Group778,5383.0
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Sales Down

But Home Fashions wane: Sales at two big home fashions suppliers, WestPoint Stevens and Dan River, both suffered from the downsizing of the same big customer, Kmart, and from continued pressure from low-cost imports as retailers go direct, cutting out domestic suppliers. Both lost ground even after a large competitor, Pillowtex Corp., disappeared, putting almost a billion dollars in annual volume up for grabs. But the Pillowtex business that didn't simply disappear or go offshore mostly went to Springs.

1. Dan River$477,448-22.1%
2. Quaker Fabric325,337-11.0
3. WestPoint Stevens1,646,202-9.1
4. Crown Crafts86,227-9.0
5. Culp318,116-6.3
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

An industry loses ground: In past years, vendors were ranked by the greatest sales and earnings gains. But that was back in those palmy days when textiles producers were actually making money or building sales. But last year, only three of the eight companies in the sample, fewer than half, improved their sales — Mohawk, Wellman and Polymer Group — not a single pure-play home fashions supplier among them. All the others declined, Dan River losing more than a fifth of its sales, declining by 22.1 percent. Ditto profits. Only three of the companies made earnings gains — Mohawk, Crown and Polymer. And even then, Polymer's gain existed only on paper. Emerging from bankruptcy, Polymer recovered from a year-before loss on the strength of a non-cash gain of $541 million stemming from its reorganization.

Top 5 sales Top 5 earnings
in $000s in $000s
1. Mohawk$5,005,0531. Polymer Group$499,379
2. WestPoint Stevens1,646,2022. Mohawk Inds.310,149
3. Wellman1,109,2753. Quaker Fabric7,939
4. Polymer Group778,5384. Culp7,220
5. Dan River477,4485. Crown Crafts3,128
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Maxed Out

They didn't have the cash to service their debt (measures the gulf between cash flow and interest expense)

At the snapping point: Awash in debt, and in some cases red ink, more than a third of the companies in this year's Vendor Report Card (three out of the eight) were unable to generate enough cash to cover the interest on their debt, let alone pay down some of the principal. WestPoint Stevens and Dan River, working their way through bankruptcy, both came up short. WestPoint was able to generate only half the cash it needed to meet its interest expense, $52.3 million on a payment of $102 million. And Dan River was nowhere close, recording an operating loss of $12 million, while owing $28.7 million, generating a shortfall of more than $40 million.

CompanyCash flowInterest expenseShortfall
WestPoint Stevens$52,341$101,972$(49,631)
Dan River(12,028)28,718(40,746)
Polymer Group40,65159,701(19,050)
All figures in $000s
( ): Denotes loss
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Operating margin

Operating income as a percentage of sales

Closer look: Cutting through the thicket of one-time charges and gains that can obscure a company's bottom line, and zooming in on operations, only two players — recovering Polymer Group and Mohawk Industries — managed to boost their operating profits last year. Polymer doubled its operating profits as it recovered from earlier weakness, and Mohawk was up 3.8 percent. Only Mohawk in the entire sample managed a double-digit operating margin — operating profits measured as a percentage of sales. Crown Crafts, an infant and juvenile products producer, nailed down second place, offsetting lower sales by slashing costs to generate a margin of 8.6 percent.

The high
1. Mohawk Inds.10.8%
2. Crown Crafts8.6
3. Culp5.4
4. Polymer Group5.2
The low
1. Dan River-2.5%
2. Wellman1.3
3. WestPoint Stevens3.2
4. Quaker Fabric4.5
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

The bottom line

Return on sales: after-tax profits as percentage of sales

Well, almost: At least at first glance, Polymer Group looked great in 2003, pushing its after-tax profits up to a whopping 64.1 percent of sales. But it managed that only by emerging from bankruptcy with a $540.5 million pretax gain as it wiped out a daunting debt load. In more real terms, unassisted by one-time paper gains, Mohawk Industries led the list with its hefty 6.2 percent return on sales, roughly unchanged from its 6.3 percent performance the year before, and up from 5.5 percent in 2001.

The top
1. Polymer Group64.1%
2. Mohawk Inds.6.2
3. Crown Crafts3.6
4. Quaker Fabric2.4
The bottom
1. Dan River-32.1%
2. Wellman-9.6
3. WestPoint Stevens-8.1
4. Culp2.3
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Methodology

The 2004 edition of the Home Textiles Today Vendor Report Card is based on data from public documents and was computed by senior research specialist Janice Chamberlain and database coordinator Cynthia Myers.

Formulas used include:

Return on sales: figured by dividing net income by net sales;

Return on equity: net income divided by shareholder equity;

Gross margin: net sales minus cost of goods sold divided by net sales;

SG&A as a percentage of sales: selling, general and administrative expenses divided by net sales;

Net debt coverage: net interest expense divided by operating income. Operating income is defined as net sales minus cost of goods sold and selling, general and administrative expenses;

Inventory turns: cost of goods sold divided by average inventory;

Operating return on sales: operating income divided by net sales;

Return on invested capital: operating income divided by total assets. Operating income is defined as net sales minus cost of goods sold and selling, general and administrative expenses.

This year's Report Card ranks eight publicly reporting companies, down from 10 last year and 15 in 2000. Missing this year are Springs Industries Inc., now privately held and no longer reporting its results, and Pillowtex Corp., which suspended operations and liquidated its business last year. The Report Card was compiled under the direction of business editor Don Hogsett and director of research Kay Anderson.

Worker productivity

Sales productivity

$000s

Doing more with fewer bodies: For a second straight year, fiber-producer Wellman Inc. managed to do more with less, squeezing more and more sales dollars out of its troops. In 2003, Wellman rang up $583.80 in sales for each worker, up almost 27 percent from $460.90 the year before; and up more than 44 percent from $403.80 during 2001. Even with that kind of worker productivity, Wellman still can't make money, and last year recorded a loss for each worker of $56.20. Almost as adept at squeezing sweat out of a stone is infant's and juvenile products producer Crown Crafts, where worker productivity totaled $357.80 in sales for each employee, up a whopping 45.8 percent from $245.4 the prior year, as the company turned more to offshore sourcing.

Rank byRank by sales per employee income per employee
salesincomeCompany2003200220032002
17Wellman$583.8$460.9($56.2)($88.3)
22Crown Crafts357.8245.413.06.4
31Polymer Group231.3200.3148.4(111.3)
43Mohawk150.3142.39.39.0
54Quaker Fabric119.8129.82.94.1
65WestPoint Stevens118.6NA(9.6)NA
76Dan River93.687.6(30.0)(1.9)
( ): Denotes loss
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Getting less bang for the buck

Return on invested capital

The returns are thinning out: With U.S. textiles producers actually producing fewer goods themselves, and stepping up sourcing of low-cost product from abroad, they're spending less and less money to add capacity or modernize their plants. After spending more than a billion dollars over the past 10 years to add capacity, cash-strapped vendors are now reversing course and shutting down some of the capacity they spent so much to add.

In 2003, the vast majority of suppliers, seven of the 10 in that year's Vendor Report Card, substantially improved their return on capital. Not so last year. Struggling to keep their noses above water, only two companies bettered the prior year's return, Culp and Polymer Group. All the others lost ground.

RankCompany20032002
1.Mohawk13.0%14.5%
2.Crown Crafts12.715.1
3.Culp8.98.0
4.Polymer Group5.62.3
5.Quaker Fabric5.48.0
6.WestPoint Stevens4.19.9
7.Wellman1.35.2
8.Dan River-2.87.4
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Managing Inventories — a balancing act

Stockpiles versus sales

Walking a tightrope: Especially in a tricky sales environment — with retailers turning the supply chain faucet on and off in an attempt to preserve their own cash — suppliers are often left holding the bag, with unsold goods sitting in their distribution centers. Last year, fewer than half the companies in the Vendor Report Card (three out of the eight) Polymer Group, Wellman and Quaker Fabrics, managed to keep their inventories balanced with sales. The others spent too much money making goods they weren't able to sell. Notably hard hit was Dan River, which managed to trim its stockpiles just 2.2 percent, while sales tumbled 22.1 percent.

CompanyInventory % changeSales % change
Polymer Group-16.6%3.0%
Wellman6.09.4
Quaker Fabric-12.7-11.0
Crown Crafts-7.4-9.0
Culp-1.0-6.3
WestPoint Stevens0.0-9.1
Mohawk22.810.7
Dan River-2.2-22.1
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

Moving the goods out the door

Inventory turns

Fiber, fabrics, move fast: In an increasingly competitive sales environment for domestic producers — with more and more retailers bypassing U.S. producers and doing their own sourcing — building and balancing stockpiles becomes a critical component of the bottom line. That's not just product sitting on a warehouse pallet, that's the cash it costs to make the goods, and the profits that might have been. Not surprisingly, in today's complex sales environment, not a single sheet or towel producer made the cut last year. The fastest inventory turns were recorded by fiber and fabric producers.

1. Wellman8.7x
2. Polymer Group6.1
3. Quaker Fabric5.4
4. Culp5.3

Sheets and towels bring up the rear: Lagging far behind, U.S. home fashions producers were slow to move the goods. WestPoint managed a turn of just 3.7 times, and Dan River was further behind at just 2.8 times.

1. Mohawk4.8x
2. Crown Crafts4.5
3. WestPoint Stevens3.7
4. Dan River2.8
Source: Home Textiles Today market research

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